Located on the southern peninsula (Reykjanes) lies Grindavik, a small fishing town with a population of about 3,000. The world famous Blue Lagoon lies about 5 km from the town.
Most tourist probably just know Grindavik as the town near the Blue lagoon and the town at the crossroads of routes 43, 425, and 427 (Do they call them routes in Iceland? Highway maybe.) Basically if you want to explore the southern side of the Reykjanes Peninsula then you will travel through Grindavik.
My first experience in Grindavik was in 2021 on a tour to see the Fagradalsfjall Volcano. Our tour bus pulled into Sundlaug Grindavikur, the local swimming pool, so we would use the facilities before our hike to the volcano. However, we didn’t really get to look around this fishing town.
My next experiences in Grindavik occurred in the summer of 2023. This trip to Iceland, I rented a car and made my own itinerary which meant getting to visit this town three times. This trip to Iceland was meant solely to see the latest eruption at Litli-Hrutur.
I was so glad to experience Grindavik and its people on this trip and my heart now breaks for them. The people couldn’t have been nicer and more helpful. When I would get lost they would point me in the right direction. When I ate in their restaurants they were kind and patient with a dusty and tired tourist whose ability to pronounce their language is poor at best. I specifically ate fish and chips at Papa’s Barinn (twice) and lobster soup at Bryggjan Grindavik.
On my last day I walked around their fishing port and explored the small peninsula, which I believe is known as Hópsnes on the west side and Þórkötlustaðanes on the east side. On that peninsula lie a few ship wrecks, a lighthouse, and some sheep that nearly ran me off the gravel road.
My two previous trips to Iceland to chase volcanos felt exciting because the volcanos were occurring far from any town or infrastructure. Beautiful and powerful and primal. Great for tourist and scientist alike. But this latest event, happening in and around Grindavik, the Blue Lagoon, and Svartsengi power station, feels so different. I pray that the magma stays underground. That the earthquakes stop. That the people can return to their homes.